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Wine
Reviews: Alamos Bonarda
by: Vino Joe (e-mail)
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Remember the Alamo: Alamos Bonarda
Bonarda is a grape whose origins are in Italy, and is still found predominantly
in Lombardy and Piedmont for blending purposes. Well, actually, no one is quite
sure, as there is some discrepancy: the Bonarda in Lombardy is often called
Croatina, which is a different grape entirely.
The Bonarda we're reviewing today, however, is from Argentina (still the land of
great wine bargains). Many believe the grape was brought over from Italy by 19th
and 20th century immigrants, and along with Malbec it is the most widely planted
grape in Argentina. But alas, there are those who believe that Argentinean
Bonarda is actually a California grape called Charbono…which some experts
believe is a strain of the Italian Piemontese grape Dolcetto!
Confused? Good. Now forget everything in the opening paragraphs, as it won't do
you any good, nor will it help you to enjoy the wine. Remember this: Alamos
Bonarda. It's about seven or eight bucks in most stores (I got it for six!), and
it comes in a nice-looking bottle. Let the geeks ponder and argue over the
origins of the grape while you help yourself to glass after glass of this great
wine value.
Alamos Bonarda has
an interesting nose of black fruit and earth, with a touch of alcohol. In the
mouth it has a surprisingly smooth texture, dry ripe fruit flavors of black
cherry and cranberry, mild tannins, and medium to high acidity. It finishes with
slightly bitter, green fruit and earthy flavors, with hints of tobacco and dusty
tannins.
What can you expect from a six-dollar wine these days? For the price, Alamos
Bonarda is absolutely adequate, and I'd describe it as having a rustic charm. As
the flavors are not overpowering and the structure is acceptable, the wine will
match with just about any food, reminding me of a low-cost Chianti. It's a fine
everyday wine and a nice break from the insipid, wood-chip-enhanced,
characterless Cabernets and Merlots in the same price range. A little rough
around the edges, this is a respectable, "blue collar" wine: no flash
or wow factor, but it gets the job done at a fair rate. Pick a bottle up and try
it with a juicy burger off the grill.
Send any questions, comments or wine stories to
vinojoe@bullz-eye.com.
For even more info on wine, visit our Vices
Web Guide!
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